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Peter

flux for soldering

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Can anyone suggest where I might pick up flux paste for soldering?

 

Thanks.

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Can anyone suggest where I might pick up flux paste for soldering?

 

Thanks.

 

Hi Peter,

 

Phoenix Paints recently took over the Carrs range of solders and fluxes, which are widely used by modellers. Their website can be found at http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk. It looks like the online store is down while the website is being restructured, but they can still take orders over the phone.

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The internet, the world is your oyster.

 

That's a disappointing attitude to take Kieran. I'm surprised at you tbh. It was a simple query.

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Depends what you are soldering i use Carrs Green Label for soldering the steel droppers on my DG couplers,other than that i don't bother i just use 188 flux cored solder and make sure the brass or nickel is clean,this where the fibreglass brushes come into there own.Does it work well 50 odd locos built that way the oldest of which is over 30 years old and still running,i guess so Andy.

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That's a disappointing attitude to take Kieran. I'm surprised at you tbh. It was a simple query.

 

Peter asked “where I might pick up flux paste for soldering" not what type of soldering to use. As he does not give any location where he is based my only thought was the internet was his best option, by putting flux paste into any search engine he would have got loads of options. I was not been flippant in my answer only trying to help a fellow modeller which has always being my approach.

 

I don't understand what you mean by "a disappointing attitude" and ask you please to withdraw your remarks.

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Posted (edited)

Hi Noel

 

OOPS! I gave a link to the soldering paste! it should have been to the soldering & flux head page..... but one can find it from there.

 

Ordinary electrical solder can be used on brass work, but I recommend don't- its already fluxed with messy stuff and with this solder the flux is going in at the wrong time- with the solder! Its a better join to flux independently, heat the work with the solder on the iron, the flux boils and cleans the metal and then the solder flows where the flux once was.

 

Most brass solders have a little lead in them, lead is good for this, it helps the solder to flow beautifully and create a good join. Just work in a well ventilated area and use a soldering extract fan if possible- sure I used to drink me water through it in my gran's old house when I was a kid and I turned out normal:SORRY:

 

Best flux I use is 12% phospheric & water- see my tips on soldering in the Workbench thread

 

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/3869-Soldering-Tips-by-murrayec?p=59978&viewfull=1#post59978

 

Eoin

Edited by murrayec

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The solder used in electronics, is too high a melting point and does not flow well

 

for brass kits I use 170 degree solder, and if I can find it with 2% silver , and Carrs yellow flux , 40 W temp controlled iron

 

There no one correct answer and the OP needs to give us more detail

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I was not been flippant in my answer only trying to help a fellow modeller which has always being my approach.

 

I don't understand what you mean by "a disappointing attitude"

 

Erm, well if you felt the need to point out that you were not being flippant, then surely you do understand what I mean? It read as you being flippant which I found disappointing (as did a couple of forum members who pointed out the same.)

 

I'm happy to see that it was a simple misunderstanding. I would just urge all posters to think how words on a screen will be interpreted when read. Thanks. :)

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Erm, well if you felt the need to point out that you were not being flippant, then surely you do understand what I mean? It read as you being flippant which I found disappointing (as did a couple of forum members who pointed out the same.)

 

I'm happy to see that it was a simple misunderstanding. I would just urge all posters to think how words on a screen will be interpreted when read. Thanks. :)

 

Fran I felt the need to point out to you that I was not been flippant as you had stated, “That's a disappointing attitude to take Kieran. I'm surprised at you tbh. It was a simple query”, the clear inference I was not taking the question seriously. You also state “Others” pointed the same but “Others” have also contacted me privately criticising the way you in addressing this matter.

 

For you to start your answer, “Erm, well if you felt the need to point out that you were not being flippant” is condescending in the extreme. You go on to say, “I'm happy to see that it was a simple misunderstanding”, are you now accepting that I did not portray “a disappointing attitude” in the contents of my post?

 

I would have hoped that in this type of situation a Moderator would have contacted the Poster privately and queried the content and resolving the matter rather than coming to a decision and publically stating it.

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To answer OP's questions, go into a plumbing yard, ask for plumbers flux, job done.

 

And if anyone is going to get excited about carrs and so on, flux comes with the same chemical formula, no matter the branding.

 

Despite what's out there, their is bugger all difference between plumbers flux and the enthusiast variant.

 

Ive spent plenty shilling on both, it's a marketing hack.

 

Spend your money on low melt solder.

 

Richie

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To answer OP's questions, go into a plumbing yard, ask for plumbers flux, job done.

 

And if anyone is going to get excited about carrs and so on, flux comes with the same chemical formula, no matter the branding.

 

Despite what's out there, their is bugger all difference between plumbers flux and the enthusiast variant.

 

Ive spent plenty shilling on both, it's a marketing hack.

 

Spend your money on low melt solder.

 

Richie

 

As a qualified heating engineer with many many years expeience the use of plumbers flux is suitable to use with caution, it contains an acid that becomes very active when heated, it must be thourghly cleaned after use otherwise it will start turning bright green and eventually corode the material TDR

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Posted (edited)

Hi

 

Have to agree here with TDR's words, sorry Richey

 

The main problem with types of flux is what your doing after the thing is soldered- say on a fine delicate model if one uses plumbing or electrical fluxes you have to be diligent in cleaning they are corrosive, can harden incredibly, and hide in seams difficult to clean out without damaging fine detail! Then you spend time applying beautiful layers of paint only to find in a couple months time your paint along that seam is corroding! that may be OK for the weathered look but not for pristine stuff.

 

Using paint friendly flux is a better bet, Carrs and phosphorous fluxes are very paint friendly- one can dip the model in phosphorous flux, not clean it off, let it dry and paint it- it's an excellent surface for paint to adhere to.

 

Using a pickling solution after soldering a model is a very good idea and can safeguard against creepy things happening later on.....

 

There is a difference

 

Eoin

Edited by murrayec

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....phosphoric acid! its phosphoric Eoin

 

bloddy spel chker!!

 

Eoin

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Does anyone know anywhere in Ireland that sells/stocks the Carr's flux and 145 degree low melt solder. I think there may be problems posting flux from UK (post restrictions on liquids)

I normally use the Carrs green flux.

Regards

John

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Does anyone know anywhere in Ireland that sells/stocks the Carr's flux and 145 degree low melt solder. I think there may be problems posting flux from UK (post restrictions on liquids). I normally use the Carrs green flux. Regards John

Hi John

FYI, you should be able to get around daft UK mail restrictions on small volumes by using 'Address Pal' but not Parcel Motel. Next they'll be classifying nail varnish as a 'HazChem'. I've had no problems getting small quantities of model paints including enamels, thinners and varnish from UK suppliers this way.

Noel

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Hi John

FYI, you should be able to get around daft UK mail restrictions on small volumes by using 'Address Pal' but not Parcel Motel. Next they'll be classifying nail varnish as a 'HazChem'. I've had no problems getting small quantities of model paints including enamels, thinners and varnish from UK suppliers this way.

Noel

 

Thanks for that Noel, Regards, John

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