Kingsbridge - paint shop

[popeye]

They are very close. Do they not rub against each other?

But they do look more correct. 

[Noel]

32 minutes ago, popeye said:

They are very close. Do they not rub against each other?

But they do look more correct. 

No rubbing as far as I can see. There is still some slop but significantly less than TLC. In forward motion the gaps can open slightly but close up like the photo when stationary or in reverse. I did some fairly exhaustive tests today forward and reverse over points and curves but so far no buffer locks nor derailments. Will try Cravens in the next week or so, but they will need Eoin's recommended fix to solve the NEM pocket error on both generations of MM Cravens.

[Noel]

Mk2 update project complete.  Weathered the rake of orange roofed MM mk2 coaches.  Used a mix of powders and airbrush on EGV below. I made them a little dirtier than the prototypes which were regularly washed because I wanted to mask the shade of day-glo orange these guys come out of the box with the weathering.

EGV sunny side in on Platform 2 at Woodvale Junction.

EGV darkside out standing at platform 2. The powders helped define the doors, roof edges and panels before over spraying roof dirt, frame dirt and a little black here and there.

I'm really enjoying this learning journey. Scary at times but worth the risks. I'll try and be a little more refined with the rake of black roofed mk2's.

[PaulC]

This, to  me, looks as refined as you can get. Wonderful work. 

Paul

[popeye]

They look great, you have got the weathering mastered. 

[Noel]

Summary of steps used to weather my orange MM mk2 EGV. Not necessarily the most efficient nor the best way, but the way I tried after reading lots of helpful posts on here by some of the forums experienced and professional paint gyrus.  Lots of scary fun but a most enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.  

[JasonB]

Lovely work Noel, definitely takes that out of the box look off them and blends everything nicely.Have some Mk2a's that could do with the same treatment when I get the chance.  

[WRENNEIRE]

You can mess all you like with your weathering powders and air brushes but when it come to it

its hard to beat the real thing  

 

 

 

 

Edited April 2, 2018 by WRENNEIRE

[StevieB]

Brilliant.

Stephen

[JasonB]

2 hours ago, WRENNEIRE said:

You can mess all you like with your weathering powders and air brushes but when it come to it

its hard to beat the real thing  

 

 

 

 

Christ Dave, where did you dig that out of.Its in worse condition than the one's rotting away in Inchicore 

[Noel]

I weathered a 'supertrain' coach yesterday for a WMRC pal who joined me while we used weathering powders and airbrush to match his preference for level of dirt. Personally I've never been a fan of modern era stock such as the Supertrain livery but I could now be tempted. Weathering certainly helps tone down the shade of orange on MM roofs. I'm going to go back and touch up the roofs of some of my own 'tippex' mk2s.

Always something to learn and things I want to tweak afterwards!  

Edited May 10, 2018 by Noel

[jhb171achill]

 That's a TOP class job, Noel.

[popeye]

Lovely, a work of art. 

[Noel]

TPO went to paint shop. Masking took a little longer than normal due the recessed sliding doors used on the TPO. Masking tape over the white and orange bands.  

Black sprayed over the lot. Slightly apprehensive about possible paint bleed under the tape. 

One hour later carefully removed the masking tape using a tweezers.

Masking the recessed doors was fun

Next up weathering, varnishing, decals, varnishing, glazing and grab rails, etc

[jhb171achill]

This looks really well - superb painting too...

[Robert Shrives]

lovely spray job , its coming along nicely

 

[jhb171achill]

On 4/2/2018 at 3:30 PM, jason brady said:

Christ Dave, where did you dig that out of.Its in worse condition than the one's rotting away in Inchicore 

The cobwebs are the wrong livery............. 

[JasonB]

4 hours ago, jhb171achill said:

The cobwebs are the wrong livery............. 

Now that you mention it JB, they do look slightly the wrong shade  

Lovely work Noel. Very precise lining as always.

[jhb171achill]

2 minutes ago, jason brady said:

Now that you mention it JB, they do look slightly the wrong shade  

The spiders are the wrong way round too.

[Noel]

Progress continues on the CIE bogie TPO kit. Got some weathering done this evening. Mix of weathering powder in solution (50% decalfix+50% water) and then airbrush for roof dirt, under frame, bogies, coach ends, etc. Next up gloss varnish in prep for transfers, then fit grab rails, letterbox cover, toilet pipework at one end, matt varnish to seal decals, glazing, pop on the chassis and finally couplings. Really enjoying this kit.

Edited May 13, 2018 by Noel

[popeye]

Better than the real thing. 

[PJR]

lovely work Noel

[Noel]

Weathered 088 this evening, my first 071 weathering. A little heavier than I normally would like but the super train locos were allowed to go manky before the IR Tippex era. Mix of weathering powders and finished with airbrush. This is the heaviest I have ever weathered a loco and the first orange livery loco I've weathered. I was never a fan of the dull super train livery but the weathering seems to help the visual appeal.

Circa 1984 after the supertrain livery had been allowed to get manky before the IR Tippex era. 088 looking well used. Mix of weathering powders followed by airbrush.

I took the body centre section off as it was easier to weather this independently and without hindrance from the walkway rails (ie it is not a good idea to remove walkway rails from baby GMs or 071s as they are a nitemare to get back on correctly.

Powders applied in solution 50% water 50% decalfix, which allows it to be reactivated when wet with a cotton bud later incase any boo-boos made or corrections needed. Applied with solution with paint brush, then wiped down/off later when almost dry using various buds.

The powders are almost enough if one was doing a light weathering job.

Powders now dry ready for airbrush. Panel lines well defined by powders and surface generally a little weathered and not pristine. Windows roughly masked off to avoid overspray on glazing.

Grimey 088 ready for a rural run out west to Claremorris.

Each time I try something new I learn so much, its seriously scary but risks have to be taken. (eg break an egg to make an omelet, etc). Anyway happy to have a weathered 071 in supertrain livery.

[Glenderg]

Weathering, for the expected effect, like a lady of loose moral, is mostly about what you take off, not what you leave on. 

Weathering powders as a medium for a wash is seriously expensive and doesn't sit in the grooves as it should. Even thinned enamel paint will do the same effect that can be reactivated later. 

Get that layer on first so you can see the details, then dial it back by reactivation. 

Powders should be used sparingly, they only infer a hint of rust / grease etc. There's a subtlety to them that I'm constantly amazed by Weathered Models group on FB. 

Anyway, to butcher my opening analogy a bit further, there's a heaviness to her upper quarters which needs restrained.

The second last photo, to me, was the perfect foundation for some gentle airbrushing, and it's maybe a wee bit overcooked on the roof and panel joints. 

Leaps and bounds you've come, so please don't see this as critical in a negative sense. 

R. 

[Noel]

9 hours ago, Glenderg said:

Weathering, for the expected effect, like a lady of loose moral, is mostly about what you take off, not what you leave on. 

Weathering powders as a medium for a wash is seriously expensive and doesn't sit in the grooves as it should. Even thinned enamel paint will do the same effect that can be reactivated later. 

Get that layer on first so you can see the details, then dial it back by reactivation. 

Powders should be used sparingly, they only infer a hint of rust / grease etc. There's a subtlety to them that I'm constantly amazed by Weathered Models group on FB. 

Anyway, to butcher my opening analogy a bit further, there's a heaviness to her upper quarters which needs restrained.

The second last photo, to me, was the perfect foundation for some gentle airbrushing, and it's maybe a wee bit overcooked on the roof and panel joints. 

Leaps and bounds you've come, so please don't see this as critical in a negative sense. 

R. 

Not at all, informed advise especially from ‘obi wan’ is always welcome.  Much still to learn. She’s heavier than I’d planned but one lives and learns by trying. Btw, thanks again for that first airbrush demo/training session you kindly gave me a few years ago.

[Noel]

To finish up 088 I added the MM detailing pack to one cab end. Some nice bits it has too, as well as the valence to hide the NEM coupling pocket, it has a proper coupling hook with a screw link coupling and all the hoses which are impossible to fit even with the tiniest of tweezers.

The detailing pack really does lift the appearance of one cab end but run arounds will no longer possible as coupling only at one and of the loco, but worth it for a few scale like specimens. I really like the three link screw coupling MM provide.

Edited February 21, 2019 by Noel
boo-boo

[Noel]

182 weathered today. I was more than a little apprehensive as this was the first ever MM loco that I bought (at the Fry Museum in Malahide castle about 14 years ago, and I was worried about making a complete dogs dinner out of the lovely loco that was responsible for bringing me back into the hobby. 182 has a special place in my modelling consciousness despite my dislike of the prototypical super train livery. I normally only very lightly weather locos with just a light dusting, just enough to take the pristine look off them, but this time I went for broke using a mix of powders and airbrush. Felt very scary but I'm moderately pleased with the result. Also added the MM Detailing kit to one cab end which greatly helps the look of the loco head on despite the lack of a coupling for run arounds.

Before and after. It almost seemed a shame to touch 182 especially as she was my first MM loco, but I like the way she turned out. Aged and used but not a scrape line candidate. I took the bogies off to avoid overspray on the wheels and pickups. They are snap fit and just pop off.

I did 182 lighter than 088 last week, far less airbrush after the weathering powders. Took the bogies off to weather them independently saves paint getting on wheels and pickups.

The MM 181 buffer beam detail kit was worth adding but, fiddley flip my eyes and fingers were frazzeled after fitting these tiny pieces using magnifying glasses and small tweezers. Must glue that cab down firmly on the sole bar to get rid of the gap.

This really is great fun, and I had a few glitches on the way, airbrush clogging and pulsing, but quickly resolved on the fly. There is nothing as stimulating as learning new stuff.  The advantage of water based powders and acrylic airbrush paint is its relatively easy to fix boo-boos. Quite impressed with the MM detailing kit especially the screw link coupling and coupling hook.

Edited February 23, 2019 by Noel

[Noel]

It was easier to do the job with the body shell off. Step one was applying the weathering powder in solution using a paint brush. Then wait to partially dry and start to wipe off and rework using damp cotton buds (many cotton buds). This takes time and patience, its easy to miss a spot. It can't be rushed.

Getting the body shell off a baby GM can be fun. Prior to weathering 182 today I had to get the body shell off. A common requirement for fitting decoders. Few pics here of process to get body shell off. Two wooden ice cream sticks are a help to apply enough pinching force to the body centre section over the mounting lugs to release them. See pics. Its easy when you know how, otherwise one could be fooled into thinking brute force or dynamite is needed to get the body shell off. If you pinch the correct spots it easily comes away just enough to get a thin screw driver under it to leverage it up and away from the walkway.

 

 

[Rob]

Looks excellent- very realistic!

Edited February 23, 2019 by Rob

[Noel]

A brace of Murphy GMs aged and weathered.

To conclude this particular weathering workbench a few pics taken of 088 and 182 in afternoon sunlight. Personally I've found I prefer painting and working on models in natural daylight compared to artificial light - perhaps that's ageing eyesight, but its just easier to see shapes, shadows and depth of colour. I am fortunate to have vellux window right over the workbench area. I really enjoyed working on these two and learned a lot. 182 is my personal favourite because she is less heavily guncked! (or is that because she was my first ever MM)  

The MM Detailing kits added to one cab end of both of these models.  Once again thank you MM for these beauties especially the Baby GMs which are so ubiqutous and diminutive yet convey a sense of motive power.

Edited February 27, 2019 by Noel

[popeye]

Very nice, do you varnish them after weathering?

[Noel]

14 hours ago, popeye said:

Very nice, do you varnish them after weathering?

I normally do but not in this case. I would have to remove the glazing first of mask it very effectively (ie air sealed not just spray blocked) otherwise the glazing could go opaque. So far I've found acrylics fairly stable once cured and reasonably handling proof. It does bring up a separate point though and this is painting or weathering onto plastic instead of onto a painted surface. Weathering powders in particular attach much better to a paint surface than just shiny plastic, and the finest mist of airbrush spray takes to paint much better than plastic. It has been suggested to me that a coat of matt varnish onto raw plastic models may assist when weathering (ie a thin coat of matt varnish provides a better base for paint or powders to key to). Myth or true I know not, but I'll try it out sometime (eg MM Mk2 orange coach roofs). 

[JasonB]

7 hours ago, Noel said:

I normally do but not in this case. I would have to remove the glazing first of mask it very effectively (ie air sealed not just spray blocked) otherwise the glazing could go opaque. So far I've found acrylics fairly stable once cured and reasonably handling proof. It does bring up a separate point though and this is painting or weathering onto plastic instead of onto a painted surface. Weathering powders in particular attach much better to a paint surface than just shiny plastic, and the finest mist of airbrush spray takes to paint much better than plastic. It has been suggested to me that a coat of matt varnish onto raw plastic models may assist when weathering (ie a thin coat of matt varnish provides a better base for paint or powders to key to). Myth or true I know not, but I'll try it out sometime (eg MM Mk2 orange coach roofs). 

Varnished or painted surfaces will take the powders alot easier Noel, but it's also harder to remove them if you make a boo boo. They tend to leave a smudge or stain on rougher surfaces, where with a glossy plastic finish they can be a little easier to get off. Depends on the preferred methods of the person using them I suppose, and the type of weathering being applied. Personally I quite like using powders and find them very effective when you can get them to work with you. 

[Rob]

They look superb!

[WaYSidE]

so real.. i love rust