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Thread: Kingsbridge - paint shop

  1. #61
    [QUOTE=Noel;99756]Next project is this. QUOTE]

    Noel have you considered cutting out the circular windows and grills. These can be replaced with the SSM A/C Class kit and gives that through view into the engine compartment. Also you could replace the hand rails and horn with brass and to my mind lifts the model to another level.
    Only a suggestion....

  2. #62
    Founding Father jhb171achill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noel View Post
    John, thank you very much. You are truly the 'jbikipedia' of this forum all matters Irish railways.

    I remember most of it, Noel! Oul Father Time......!!

    (And there are an increasing number of days when i feel it.........!)
    “An error does not become truth by reason of multiplied propagation, nor does truth become error because nobody sees it. Truth stands, even if there be no public support”

    Never argue with an idiot. He will bring you down to his level, then beat you with experience.

  3. #63
    Founding Father jhb171achill's Avatar
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    For general interest's sake, and of use to our colleagues building a layout based on Bantry, it may be of interest to know the regular C's on the West Cork system: these were -

    C202

    C210

    C217

    C220 (Lined green after 1960)

    C224

    C230 (Unlined green after July 1960)

    C231 (Lined green by November 1960)

    C232

    C234 (Unlined green by mid 1960)

    All others thoroughly filthy "silver".

    In 1963, when they started painting them black'n'tan, a few were still silver - never went green. For our Bantry friends, (mods - is it possible to post this with Bantry as well?) the black Bandon Tank (No. 464) and green "C" class locos would bring in new interest if the layout is based about 1960/1, just before it closed, instead of in the fifties. It also allows railcars after 1954 - these would obviously not be accurate for, say, early fifties.

    This is all for the record, for those wanting accuracy. If I had a West Cork layout, I would also be happy to have black'n'tan 141s heading a couple of Cravens and a Dutch Van towards Skibbereen......!
    Last edited by jhb171achill; 1 Week Ago at 12:44 PM.
    “An error does not become truth by reason of multiplied propagation, nor does truth become error because nobody sees it. Truth stands, even if there be no public support”

    Never argue with an idiot. He will bring you down to his level, then beat you with experience.

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by Kirley View Post
    Noel have you considered cutting out the circular windows and grills. These can be replaced with the SSM A/C Class kit and gives that through view into the engine compartment. Also you could replace the hand rails and horn with brass and to my mind lifts the model to another level.
    Only a suggestion....
    Hi Kieran.

    Thanks for suggestions. I have considered same, but I've decided to walk before I run on the first loco project. I have the SSM detailing kit, but the grills don't match for C class (i.e. the SF body grill seems incorrectly much wider), I've already filed off the headlamp as the loco will be pre-rebuilt era, and I quite like the existing resin grill on top, which leaves brass for just the front window surrounds, wipers, etc. I will save the SSM detail kit for an A class project where I can use all of the brass. For this C class I have a modified centre drive chassis which fills the internal space, so little point having a see through grill (i.e. on the prototype you could see right through the loco from one side to the other).

    The three areas I wan't to concentrate on for this first loco 'training exercise', is the quality and precision of the paint job, chassis running performance as per the prototype (i.e. due weight, all wheel drive and all wheel pickup), and DCC sound.

    Noel

  5. #65
    I know what you mean about the Kit, you have to cut it for a C Class.

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    Looking forward to seeing your chassis Noel.

  6. #66
    Yea, if I cut the resin I'd want to ensure the grills ended up flush with the body sides rather than protruding, same for the window frames, well almost flush.

  7. #67
    There is a lot to do to this kit to ring it up to a good standard.
    I got the brass etch and only used the round fan grill. I'm still trying to glaze it
    and the motor i got with it was so bad, i put in a Black Beetle which runs very well.
    Good luck, it will be nice when finished i'm sure.

  8. #68
    Founding Father jhb171achill's Avatar
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    What's the best chassis to use for a "C"? Also, even if not best as such, what's the cheapest and easiest?
    “An error does not become truth by reason of multiplied propagation, nor does truth become error because nobody sees it. Truth stands, even if there be no public support”

    Never argue with an idiot. He will bring you down to his level, then beat you with experience.

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by jhb171achill View Post
    A forthcoming book will show two (albeit very much in the background) sitting in Mallow on the down side.

    I've seen a better pic elsewhere, will delve. I'd imagine it was a short-lived arrangement.
    Ok, JB, many thanks. Please post or PM
    K
    "Where Seventeen Railroads Meet the Sea"

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by jhb171achill View Post
    What's the best chassis to use for a "C"? Also, even if not best as such, what's the cheapest and easiest?
    SF recommends these Hornby chassis for a plastic "cut and shut" job: Class 25 or 29 or 73, and the C class kit comes with instructions for cutting any of these three. However these are old style basic chassis (i.e. railroad specs) with only four wheel diagonal pickup and one powered bogie.

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