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Thread: SSM brakevan

  1. #11
    That's looking really good Gerhard. It's an ideal kit for beginners and experienced modellers. The end results look fantastic when they are complete.

    Rich,

  2. #12
    Looking good can't wait to see the finished model

  3. #13
    Senior Member Aussie Phil's Avatar
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    Never worked in brass and rarely solder so very jealous of your talent. Looking great. Cant wait to see finished model

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Phil View Post
    Never worked in brass and rarely solder so very jealous of your talent. Looking great. Cant wait to see finished model
    Phil, don't forget, I specifically designed this kit to be easily put together by solder or superglue. So, if you've ever built an Airfix kit, you can build this one.
    Regards
    Weshty.

  5. #15
    Super Guru Horsetan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weshty View Post
    `

    Sound man. As I've stated on these pages before, if you decide to give it a shot, do NOT proceed without the following

    1. bog standard soldering iron 25-35 watts


    2. Carrs 145 solder and Carrs Green Flux (Chronos or DCC concepts)
    The 145 solder melts at a lower temp and much faster (added bonus: you can hold one end of a piece without burning your fingers)
    The flux reduces surface tension and helps the solder to flow very easily into a joint

    3. Fine sandpaper or better still a fibre brush
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fibre-glas...item5d3676cbb3
    You need this to remove the brass oxide layer. Solder and flux will work much better with the oxide removed. The brush removes it without leaving scratch marks or removing detail on the bras sheet
    A resistance soldering unit, used with solder paint / solder cream, will also work well, and you will achieve some very neat, controlled joints.
    "F*** your Honda Civic, I've a horse outside"

  6. #16
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    I am also building one of Whesty"s brake vans; three questions, were they running in the latter steam period and if they had the snail totem where would it have been placed? Were they always painted oxide red or is grey an option? I am thinking of putting vacuum brake gear underneath as it looks a bit naked!
    Thanks in anticipation, Mike

  7. #17
    Quote " Never worked in brass and never solder so very jealous of your talent. Looking great. Cant wait to see finished model " I'm with Aussie Phil on this one,

  8. #18
    Super Guru Glenderg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike 84C View Post
    I am also building one of Whesty"s brake vans; three questions, were they running in the latter steam period and if they had the snail totem where would it have been placed? Were they always painted oxide red or is grey an option? I am thinking of putting vacuum brake gear underneath as it looks a bit naked!
    Thanks in anticipation, Mike
    They did run with the snail totem but only rated as 20 tonners - even though the body is identical to the 30 tonner, would love to know the genesis of these- without the vac brake text. Undergear appears to be naked, but you'd never notice in fairness. The long steps tend to obliterate that view.
    Mid build - please forgive the unfinished look.

    Name:  1410306238867.jpg
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    The totem was on the upper left panel, and the "20 ton brake" text on the upper right with the number stencilled on the lower right hand panel. Works' stencil tests seems not to be present. I have a few photos from the O'Dea collection showing same with date - don't have them on the tablet here but will post tomorrow from the big rig.

    Grey and black for the centre panel is an option for early running - late 70,s.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/holyco...7629831107647/

    Lemme dig through a few snaps and see if any capture the undercarraige. R.

  9. #19
    That's suburb looking Richie, How much more finished could it possibly get!!

  10. #20
    Drooling here Richie. Lovely job. A fine gradiated approach to the painting and gentle weathering

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